Monday, July 9, 1990

French Gazette Vol. 4 No.3 9 Juillet 1990


Salut, enfants de la patrie!

All geared up to celebrate the 201st anniversary of the Revolution, I hope? We might be headed off to a barbecue: depends whether or not Renaud gets himself organised enough in time. Anyway, get out the old red white and blue, remove your culottes, and settle down to the serious task of overthrowing the aristocracy - you’ve nothing to lose but your brioches.

Guess who rang up the other day! Wrong, it was in fact Allflex (France) grovelling for a bit of a hand. Longterm readers of this rubbish will recall that I started out in France working for them on a little portable data terminal which could, amongst other things, read from and write to a dinky little electronic badge. Now, some time ago Jacques was contacted by a firm called Omnium Plastics which is, amongst other things, the French number 1 in rubbish skips, to help keep track of these things. I wrote a little program for the terminal to do this thing: later on Aliflex got in on the deal and matters lay there. Until Friday, when I got a phone call from Ailfiex, followed rapidly by one from the computer consultancy they’d hired. They’d been a little too smart for their own good: seems they’d decided to use the terminals to create the badges (one per rubbish skip) and build their own little interface thing to read the information thereon and load it into the humungous IBM or whatever it is that Omnium uses.

Well and good, and they went off and created about 20,000 badges and stuck them all over rubbish bins about Paris, and a few weeks ago they got around to testing their little home-brew interface only to find that they couldn’t ~ any of these badges, the data on them being encrypted. Panic as they realise that they’re a bit stuck, and what’s worse they’re headed into penalty clause time on the contract with the City of Paris. Hence the phone calls.

Now when I left Allflex I left copious notes and all the programs lying around, these last being on the computer I used. It appears that, in their wisdom, they threw out all the notes and, after erasing the disk, sold the computer to Jacques. Consequently, I’m about the only person around who knows how the encryption is done, so who knows, they may have to pay me to reconstruct the program. I’m waiting with bated breath to see what comes next.

17/7/90

Another week rolls round, eh? Well, we didn’t go barbecueing (Renaud being as disorganised as usual) so we went on a little drive instead, skirting the Massif de la Chartreuse, passing through Voiron (where Chartreuse liqueur is now made, the monks having found that the attractions of a distillery on the doorstep were incompatible with their calling ie they were inundated by tourists) to wind up at Lac du Paladru, which is quite pleasant as muddy-botttomed lakes go but which was - it being the holiday season now - packed with serried ranks of Frenchpeople wearing knotted hankies.

Never mind, all this gives one a chance to see the average French tourist in action. (Not to mention the average Dutch tourist, of which there are far too many, wombling around in their big fat underpowered cars towing their enormous caravans loaded to the Plimsoll line with cigars and diamond merchants and arms salesmen and keeping a sharp eye on the speedo to make sure that they never ever travel at the speed limit, for preference leaving a good 30km/h margin just in case.) Anyway, should you ever go driving about scenic parts of France in the holiday season, you will note that, at every rubbish tip, quarry or eyesore, there are lines of cars (many with caravans) pulled up: in front of the oiliest, foulest-smelling gravel pit to be found in the chosen spot will be sitting (comfortably installed in deckchairs) the French. Enjoying themselves. Having a nice snack, taking in the open air. Show them a spot of great natural beauty, graced with bosky turves and banks where the wild thyme grows and primrose nods its head etc., they whizz past on the way to the next gravel pit.
 
 
Some say that this is because the French respect nature too much to wish to pollute it by their presence: my personal opinion is that a good number of them (probably Parisians, but let’s not be prejudiced) just don’t feel comfortable having lunch (picnic or otherwise) out of sight of a chemical plant or oil refinery. Margo is somewhat more charitable than I: she’s just suggested that the reason they like rubbish tips is that these are the closest they’ve ever come to nature: anything less appalling is totally outside their experiential frame of reference (if you’ll excuse the phrase) and is therefore ignored.

Another odd thing about the French on holiday: the urge to expose one’s body at the beach is inversely proportional to its desirability (except at Cannes, during the film festival). So anyone who comes visiting in the hope of being able to ogle serried ranks of breasts and bums glistening with exotic lotions is likely to be disappointed. (Except, of course, at Cannes ...) What you are more likely to see is Mr and Mme Average Frenchperson, he with a hairy and rather flabby belly exposed between a ripped, grayish singlet and a pair of purple, green and yellow checked Bermuda shorts, she (with a figure charitably described as over-generous) topless and far from bottomless, reclining in a deckchair puffing on a filter-tipped Gauloise. Their delectable, sultry brunette daughter, on the other hand, is muffled up to the ears in a shapeless felt bag (probably from Chanel), chatting earnestly to the spotty-faced son of Mr and Mme FrenchPeople Nextdoor (despite the fact that they live in neighbouring apartments in Paris, the only time they talk is when they’re on holiday: this is called Tradition, and is almost always respected) and keeping half an eye on Uncle and Aunt, who have apparently come on holiday with the sole purpose of playing boules (so as not to disturb the rhythm of life, ‘cos they play boules at home in Paris too).

26/7/90

Well folks, today is a day of some celebration, as I’ve learnt that I actually ~ have a patron saint. It came about on Saturday, when we went out to a birthday barbecue in honour of Sue, an Australian girl who’s married to Serge, who just happens to be French. (This upsets the administration something terrible, by the way, ‘cos she went and got married on a tourist visa, and you just can’t do that. Or so it seems. Bit late now, she said.) Anyway, she’s pregnant (this too is probably against some regulation or another, but to date no-one’s complained) and so at this barbecue Serge had out an old book of Breton first names (he being not only French but Breton French, who are more stubborn than anyone else except, maybe, the Auvergnat French) and as I was looking through it in search of a few choice tongue-twisters who should I come across but Saint Treveur? Hopeless spelling, but that’s the French for you, and I don’t mind too much.. Prince and martyr, his festival is the 10th September (don’t forget the presents): his emblem is the warthog and he is believed to keep a benevolent eye on septic-tank cleaners.

A notable party it was, not least for the fact that the centrepiece after the meal was the most repulsive fruit with which I’ve ever had the misfortune to become acquainted. I can’t remember its name, which is a shame ‘cos if I could I’d be better able to avoid it, but it is large (about the size of a water-melon, which means that there’s more than enough to go around, even if you happen to have about 500 guests), covered in spikes, and comes from somewhere in Asia. As if the spikes weren’t enough to put one off, the thing stinks - almost aggressively so - and a particularly rich, powerful and fruity stink it is indeed. There are certain people who, undiscouraged by all this, actually try to eat it. You do this by clamping a clothes-peg firmly over the nose, then hacking the ghastly object open with a machete or chainsaw, whichever you happen to have to hand. The stink will - at the very least n- redouble (you did put the clothes-peg on, didn’t you?) which is a sign that you are getting to the really good part, where an intimate friend scoops out lumps of the aromatic, pale-green quivering flesh (if I may use the word) and forces them between your gritted teeth.

Now Serge found out about these things whilst travelling through Asia and, for some really bizarre reason, took an instant liking to them, so when he saw a couple in a Parisian grocery he bought one, doubtless saying to himself “This here is the very thing I was looking for to wrap up our birthday barby” and wrap it up it very nearly did. Perhaps it was the trip down from Paris that did it, but even Serge confessed - before opening it - that he thought it smelt a bit strong - could be overripe. We very nearly threw the foul thing into the lake: just as well we didn’t, ‘cos there was a fishing competition the week after, and it’d surely have killed off the trout.
 
There’s yet another excellent reason for getting out the bunting, and it goes like this: a few weeks ago the Mairie sent me a little note saying that, as they were all going on holiday, could I take or send the fiscal stamps required for the renewal of our cartes de séjour directly to the Prefecture at Chambèry (also hoping, I imagine, to avoid a repeat of last year’s little problem, where they took my fiscal stamps but forgot to stick them on). The weeks passed tranquilly, until yesterday I thought I’d better get around to doing so, so off I went, bought 550F worth of fiscal stamps, and toddled off to the Prefecture. (Who are, of course, only open between 9am and 4 pm, closed at lunchtimes, stiff bikky if you can’t get time off work.) Having there been misdirected to the appropriate office and persuaded someone to come to the counter, said person said it was all a terrible mistake, the Maine hadn’t understood at all, I shouldn’t have had to come in for another month or so yet, when our brand new computerised cartes de séjour would be ready, and by the way they’d be good for 10 years this time round, was that all right by me?

I had to admit it was. I can’t imagine what came over them: perhaps it’s because of Malyon, could be they got tired of seeing our dossiers come in every year, maybe they thought that after three years we deserved some sort of reward for perseverance if nothing else, but most likely they’ve just started to run out of space in their filing cabinets. A bit of a shame, all things considered: the annual encounter with the administration always gave me something to write about. Helped keep the people who make photocopier paper in business, too. Anyway, that’s that: in a few weeks we should receive our spanking new cards, which we’ll have to renew in 2001. Might actually be able to wangle a work permit for Mango now as well, which’d be rather nice.

2/8/90

Well, here I am again. Today being a Thursday, I thought I’d give you news of Malyon. (Those of you who are not interested in babies may skip this paragraph.) At the ripe young age of 10 and a bit months she has four teeth (sharp) and another two coming down, walks happily around the furniture, crawls at an alarmingiate of knots and has learnt how to climb up onto the sofa. Climbing down again is a bit more problematic, but this is, I’m told, perfectly normal. She’s in excellent health and, unfortunately, enjoys early rising: a bit disastrous but, once again, perfectly normal. She is also getting quite good at climbing stairs: once she learns how to go down them we’ll be able to send her down to get the mail all by herself.

We’re still in the middle of the “canicule”, which is what the French call the dog days: the temperatures are up in the mid- to high 30s. Did you see that when the Tour de France arrived in Paris it was over 40’ there? The forecast temperature for St Tropez today: 22’ at sunrise, and getting hotter. It’s all supposed to last for at least another week.

While I’m here, its’s probably time to talk to you about the new French tax explained on Canal + not so long ago. It’s called the “wally tax”, and to pay it, you have only to tick a box on your tax return saying “I am a wally because ...“ (please tick one) “ ... I read at least three Harlequin super-romances (in which the hero is really nice, and kissing is only allowed after marriage) each week, and what’s more I believe in them totally” OR “... I have at least four halogen spots mounted on my car”. So, if you think that you too might be a wally, just tick the box, and pay 20% more tax. It’s a nice idea, I think.

12/8/90

And now a warning to fish-lovers everywhere: flounders are dangerous to your health. I have this on the excellent authority of Dave Barry, well-known amateur expert on exploding animals and such things: the originator, incidentally, of the Barry Alert Scale for self-destructing wotsits, ranging from Potato Alert (exploding potatoes) to Yuckorama Alert (exploding cows). A man to whom the free world owes an enormous debt. Anyway, as you may or may not know, this man, masquerading as a dilettante CIA agent in the Far East, has a network of spies all over the globe: it appears that his Wellington agent informed him that, one night, the flounder she was to have for dinner exploded. I admit that on the Barry Scale this only rates a Fish Finger Whoopsie, but I still think that those of you who really like eating flatfish should do so in an informed manner, being aware of the potentially enormous risks involved.

Last weekend was fun: barbecue on Saturday and then dining out on Sunday. It all came about quite simply really: Saturday lunchtime in Chambèry Margo suggested that it’d be quite be quite nice to have a long lazy lunch: riposting to the effect that Malyon was currently being a little pain, I suggested dinner instead. All this having been decided, we headed off home to be greeted by a phone call from Steve (an English real-estate agent, but really very nice despite that) and his wife Isabel (French, and thus no excuses needed) saying what about a nice picnic this evening. Now you may not know this, but I actually enjoy picnics (providing that use of a chemical loo or other substitute for the real thing is not obligatory) so we said yes. As our contribution to the evening, I man-handled the barbecue into the boot. Yes, we have a barbecue. I must admit, the first few times I used it I had the urge to throw the damned thing off the balcony (hoping vaguely that it’d hit someone, and that I’d be sentenced to at least 20 years on Devil’s Island, far from barbecues) but since Renaud introduced me to the joys of the flame-thrower we’ve had few problems getting it lit and persuading it to stay that way.

Speaking of the boot reminds me of the car, which in turn reminds me of the day last week when I tried to buy a replacement for the little joint-come-filter affair which lives in the water line to the windscreen-washers, the old one having given up the ghost. I had to go to the one and only Alfa Romeo garage in Chambèry to find it, and it cost me 60 francs: between $15-$20 for an inch-and-a-half of plastic tubing with a bulge in it and an arrow printed on one side. Even the cashier had the grace to blush. Never mind (or not too much): at least I got to ogle the latest Alfa Spyders (pant pant, drool).

Anyway, having barbecued until about 11 at night (yes, it ~ take me that long to get the thing going, stop laughing in the cheap seats) we arranged to meet on Sunday: consequently had dinner on the lakefront at Aiguebellette. This is the same lake at which Margo and I saw our first snake: reputedly one of the cleanest in  France, second only to Annecy (the lake, not the snake) which may well be true, but not around the swimming beaches. (Your best bet is probably to stop on the roadside and clamber down the bank if you want a nice calm swim in beautiful clear water.) Dinner was nice, at any rate. (Handy hint for travellers: it’s amazing, but the French tend to go home at about 7 pm. Go anywhere scenic at about 7:15, the few Frenchmen still there will be packing up and leaving and in about 10 minutes you’ll have the whole place to yourself.)

By the way, the name of the fruit comes back to me - it’s a dunan or something like that. Just to be on the safe side, steer clear of all smelly, spiny fruit beginning with the letter D.

Tuesday, Ian and Marie and Elise descended. Ian and Marie were headed off for a camping holiday in Austria, and as Elise is the same age as Malyon (give or take a few days) she didn’t have much say in the matter. They’ve gone now, and despite careful checks there appear to be no odd socks under the sink and the toothbrushes are all present or accounted for. Can’t think what’s gone wrong. The two babies seemed to have fun: eating apples together, dribbling in harmony, nicking the other’s toys, reeling, writhing and frothing in fits - antisocial little beasts at that age, they are.

I think I might wrap this up with an excerpt from a chemist’s handbook from 1750 or thereabouts which Renaud dug out the other night (he finally got his barbecue organised). It starts off innocuously enough: “Take the head of a healthy young man, preferably not dead of violence ...“ and goes on to say (skipping some of the more repulsive details of the recipe) “... after boiling ... the liquor thus obtained is sovereign against the vapours, but by reason of its colour and foetid aroma is but rarely used.” Which is rather reassuring, I must say. Bye!

Friday, May 4, 1990

French Gazette Vol. 4 No. 2 4 mai 1990


Hello again everyone.

I’m still all on my little lonesome, Mango having decided to delay her return by a couple of weeks. Before you dash off to write letters anxiously enquiring after my condition, let me state that I’m bearing up well under the strain, all things considered. I pass my time reading, cooking, working on the Ferrari (a Dino, but only a model, I’m afraid) and generally idling. Getting good at that, actually.

Got the car muffler fixed, and it’s amazing the difference it makes. We no longer roar past sounding like a flock of maddened motor-scooters and frightening little old ladies. She accelerates a bit better too, which I suppose is normal. Nothing major has fallen off recently either, so all is going relatively well in that department.

Made it through to Annecy and the wine salon, too. After prowling around a bit tasting this and that (including a very nice ‘84 Bergerac, a wine which doesn’t seem to get around very much) I eventually wound up at the stand of the chap from whom I bought a case last year (Domaine Paul Autard: should you ever see any about, buy it), and to my considerable surprise he actually remembered me and, what’s more, my name! (Did my last cheque bounce, I wonder?) Anyway, I was so stunned that I was easily persuaded to buy another case - six bottles of the ‘85, and another six of the ‘86 - and he threw in a bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape white as well, this last being something you’re unlikely to come across in New Zealand. (I did see a bottle once, in a LiquorLancl store of all places, and it cost about $40.) Drank it a few nights afterward, when I had people round for dinner, and very nice it was too.

8/5/90

As you may or may not be aware, Europe is currently undergoing what the English are pleased to call a “heat-wave” ie the temperatures are sitting pretty steady around 26~. Today being a holiday (Armistice Day 1945, if memory serves) I’ve passed most of it (since getting out of bed this morning) in lying out on the balcony and basking, trying to get a bit of colour back into my pallid skin. (A few weeks ago I looked like The Thing that Lives in the Cellar.) Anyway, I borrowed the portable on which I’m currently writing this from work last night, and as the thunderclouds are now coming up, as they have every night for the past week or so at about this time (thereby forcing me away from sunbathing), I thought I’d get a bit of this done. So here I am, gazing at a (typically) grotty LCD screen and pecking away at a ludicrously small keyboard and trying not to make too many typing errors.

The general amnesty law which traditionally accompanies the election of a president in France has had some rather unintended consequences this time round. In an affair involving numerous deputies and mayors, both Socialists and Gaullists, accused of accumulating money for their electoral campaigns by means which would commonly be regarded as fraudulent (typically, false invoices), the judges have decided that they are not competent to sit on the matter (or whatever the legalese is) as the alleged offences are covered by the amnesty law. General outrage, seized upon eagerly by the Communists and the RPR, who only howl the louder (in an effort to drown the voice of sweet reason, I suppose) when it’s pointed out that this particular law was passed with the almost unanimous consent of the deputies, including them. In another twist, I saw someone on TV the other night claiming that the fraud - if such it was - wasn’t really fraud, the persons concerned had to do it to get the money to be re-elected because the French election system doesn’t give them enough to do so honestly and anyway, everyone does it: the fault is thus really in the system and we should give them more money. A case of special pleading, if you ask me, but no-one yet has.

On the brighter side, Rocard has proposed a law which would ban any person inciting racial or religious hatred/intolerance from holding office in France. This is widely - and probably rightly - seen as an effort to undermine Jean-Marie La Pen and company (there’s only one National Front deputy in parliament these days, and he’s not it) and it seems reasonably likely to succeed. I see also that the arbitrator in the Rainbow Warrior affair has decided that France should pay New Zealand the sum of about 12,000,000 francs, to go toward a fund to promote understanding between the two countries. That’ll really hurt the French to the quick - however did you manage it?

And while I’m just nattering away, they’ve finally got around to sticking another aerial on the apartment, which means that we now get La Cinq and M6, these being the other two private TV channels. In practice, this means that Miami Vice, spaghetti Westerns, and low-budget soft-porn are added to the nightly viewing menu. Although they do screen “Dangerman” (remember Patrick McGoohan?) and “The Saint” (Roger Moore before he grew up) on M6. Usually just before the soft-porn, in fact: this is called ‘balanced programming’.

Work is going reasonably well, much as usual (I think I mentioned that Greece is just about wrapped up, which leaves only the actual installation, and I don’t know whether or not I’ll be involved in that at all), leaving me only the aluminium factory at Saint-Jean to get up my nose. This is the never-ending affair of the oscilloscope/data acquisition program I inherited, which I’ve a growing urge to redo from scratch. In theory, I should then be able to touch it without being afraid of breaking it, which is currently not the case. I’m also “minding” an apprentice, something which takes up too much of my time (she seems incapable of exercising a bit of initiative, and consequently tends to seek approval before so much as crossing a “t” or dotting an “i”). Probably not enormous fun for her either - my “explanations” are likely to be incomprehensible at the best of times, and it must be worse when I try them in French. Never mind, I’ve signed up for a few weeks holiday when Mango gets back, far from the madding crowd and all that.

I found out something new about French insurance the other day, too. Got the bill for next year’s house and contents insurance on Thursday (the due date for payment was the preceding Monday, three cheers for efficiency and customer service), this being from the same people who’d quoted the staggering sum of 15,000 francs for simple third-party insurance for the car, and I thought “Hoho!” (or words to that effect) “I shall not pay this, rather I shall wander in to the nice people who insure the car and get them to do this lot as well, especially as I shall thus get a reduction on the car insurance.” It is not that simple (did you think for a moment that it would be?). When, in France, you take out insurance, you enter into a contract, and said contract cannot be terminated at will by the contractee (me, in this case). Oh no. You must give the poor insurer at least three months notice of your intention to terminate the contract (to give him time, I assume, to embezzle a bit more) and, even when this is done, do you think he’s going to refund that portion of the premium which is, shall we say, “unused”? Not on your life he’s not. In fact, with house and contents insurance, the only way to terminate the contract (apart from this three months notice business) is either a change of residence, or death (which I suppose counts as a rather special case of the first), and in neither case is a refund considered. The upshot of this is that, come Novemberish, I shall toddle back down to SAMDA, say something along the lines of “I wish to insure myself with you”, get them to write a letter to the current insurance people rudely notifying them of my intention to stop paying them, and happily accept the rebate on the car insurance. It still seems an unnecessarily complicated way of doing something that’s really rather simple. Never mind, at least I know now.

Hullo, the first rocket has just gone up. The anti-hail rockets, that is. The vineyards are heavily populated with these things, and whenever a thunderstorm comes up they fire a few of them off to frighten off any hail which might be thinking of coming down and damaging the young tender sprouts of the vines (not to mention the bunches of grapes, although it’s too early for that just yet). If no hail falls, the vigneron is extremely happy and thanks the day he had the system installed: if the vines are ruined he is reduced to bemoaning the fact that he fired them too early, or too late, or they’d gone off or something, at least until he gets a sniff of the insurance money. It’s a system which, if it works, opens a few interesting legal questions: assuming that the hail is not intelligent enough to comprehend that the rockets have been fired from vineyard A, it may in fact refrain from falling not only on vineyard A, but also in the surrounding vineyards B, C and D, and it’s common knowledge that the owner of vineyard C never ~ fires off rockets. Does the owner of A have a right to recompense from that of C? (The answer is given on page 4.)

At any rate, whether or not the rockets can be credited, it’s not hailing. Heavy rain, yes (rather pleasant, actually - cools the place down a bit), but no hail. Chalk one up for the vignerons. Whups, there goes another one. Some people are never satisfied.

Anyway, just at the moment it’s probably time for me to go off and start preparing lobster Newburg for my dinner. (For those of you who don’t know, this is lobster flesh sautded, flambéed with a dash of cognac, then finished off in a cream and Madeira sauce. It’s nice, if you like that sort of thing.) Happily, frozen Canadian lobsters are cheap here, and in my opinion the end result is worth it. OK, I’ll be back soon.

And here I am, as promised. You know, the only problem with writing on a machine like this (apart from the screen and the toy keyboard) is that I’ll have to remember to squirt everything I’ve done so far back onto my machine in a feeble attempt to ensure that I’ve goVthe same copy of everything all around. (And to get it printed off, but that’s another matter.) Admittedly, this is not too much of a problem with all of the utilities we’ve got floating around whose sole porpoise in life is to do just that, but it does mean that my desk (currently occupied by only three PCs, which must be some sort of record for me) permanently resembles a rat’s nest with cables flopping in all directions. Not to mention screws and brackets and suchiike from odd systems which have, at various times, been disassembled and - more or less - put back together there. I suppose that this is the price you pay for technology. Things could be worse.

By the way, have I mentioned that I got to see a New Zealand film on Canal+ the other night? A charming little thing entitled “Bad Taste”, produced, directed by, and acted in by some chap from godnose where (one Peter Jackson) and his three mates. The plot is reasonably simple: entire population of a seaside village disappears, taken by aliens as raw materials for an intergalactic hamburger bar; NZ Secret Services special brigade (“the Boys”) save the day. It got the Gore prize at the Paris Festival of Fantasy Films not too long ago (which is probably why it cropped up on TV), and it has a marvellous scene with a chainsaw. I’m not sure why, but the thing did have a distinct Kiwi flavour to it, even in French: could have been the obviously low budget. Recommended, but don’t plan on dining out after seeing it.

Be that as it may, the time has probably come to put this to bed for the night. I’ve eaten and have a glass of wine to hand, night has fallen, and The Stranglers are gently savaging my ears in the background: more to the point, I’ve got to go to work tomorrow and I have the dishes still to do tonight (“and miles to go before I sleep” - Robert Frost, freely adapted). On which note I’ll leave you for the time being.

29/5/90

Back again. Margo turned up a week or so ago and we had a nice week’s holiday not doing terribly much at all. Even managed to go for a picnic at Lac d’Aiguebellette on Wednesday, and it was very nice: we had the place to ourselves. (If you don’t count the swans, that is.) Malyon practiced eating grass, and I puddled around trying out our nice new camera. Thanks, by the way, to all those of you who put up with Mango and Malyon while she was in NZ: it’s much appreciated.

Anyway, this week I’m back at work tinkering with a little box for Merlin Germ (them again). Much to my surprise, my machine was still intact when I arrived, and no-one appears to have cluttered up my disk with new, unwanted and probably useless software. I’ve even got my nice colour monitor still. (The desk’s a bit clearer than it was, though.) Renaud’s off in Greece tippling retsina and trying to install the system there, and not much else is going on. There are a couple of biggish projects in the pipeline though, so that probably won’t last too long. A shame. Never mind, next week I’m on holiday again: Janet Hendry (that was - currently Janet Julian, I think) is supposed to be coming to visit.

Seems there’s another New Zealander at Montmélian, by the way: that makes four, counting us. A rugby player, according to the landlord, who’s been imported to play for the local team. Must get around to finding out a bit more about that, I suppose. Speaking of the landlord reminds me that the Syndic and the insurance company between them still haven’t got around to having our ceiling repaired. That makes one and a half years so far: perhaps it’ll get done before we leave the country, but I’m not too hopeful.

25/6/90

A month later ... doesn’t time fly? I promise that I’ll finish this Real Soon Now, though. How’s life with you, anyway? Over here the weather is fine (at the moment, anyway), and we have Margo’s cousin Mandy and her 16 month-old lad staying with us for a bit. This makes it extremely difficult to get anything at all done, but at least he doesn’t try to eat the paper when you’re trying to read it.

We got invited to a baptism the other day, too. Angeline and Tony’s son (this being, you may recall, the Irish-French couple we met) was to get dunked in a trad. Catholic ceremony, so off we went. An oddly assorted lot we were too: the godmother (an Australian) and one of Angeline’s numerous sisters and brothers-in-law for the English-speaking side, us, Tony’s family who arrived, a bit late, from the Ardèche speaking various mixtures of French and Portuguese and of course the vicar, who spoke French, some English, and Japanese. Plus a couple of little old ladies from the village who snuck in to enjoy the show: I suppose you can hardly shoo them away. (“Go on, you little old ladies, shoo! Out from behind that font!”)

And after that it was time for the party. A typical French family gathering: eating, drinking, much loud discussion of this, that and the other, and a few games of boules (or pétanque, if you prefer) for the gentlemen: the ladies sat around in the sun getting tiddly on port and discussing little Sean. An entertaining afternoon, really.

On the polical front, the only snippet of any interest would be the mayor of Grenoble, who has been suspended from the RPR. Seems they were having a by-election or something which the RPR could not, by any stretch of the imagination, win: this lad’s horrible crime was to suggest to his constituents that, this being the case, they should vote for the Socialist candidate rather than for the National Front. Chirac et al were unimpressed, hence the suspension (although they’d probably happily have voted for guillotining instead), and as far as I’m aware the matter rests there.

And we’ve just got around to demanding yet another extension of our cartes de sdjour. Yet another contract to sign, more photocopies to take of just about every document that comes to hand, signatures - in ~ ink, if you please, stamped self-addressed envelope and to top it all off they’d changed the forms (Wanting to know, amongst other things, your socio-professional category: 1 or 2, and your mother’s maiden name). Anyway, that’s that out of the way for another year.

Almost out of the way, at any rate, except for the fact that the Prefecture cannot find the fiscal stamps which ought to have been stuck on the cards at last year’s renewal, and we’re willing to believe them: it thus seems likely that the secretary at the Maine did not in fact stick them on our cards as she ought to have done, but did something else with them instead. No great problem for us, ‘cos she signed and sealed our cards an’ all, but if the stamps are not found somewhere she’ll probably have to pay for more.

On a lighter note, I gather from the Dave Barry column in the IHT that killer flatworms from New Zealand have invaded England, coming over on commercial flights disguised as attorneys. I’m not entirely certain that it’d be a good idea to believe this, though, as he is sometimes a silly man. (He it was who first broke the news to an anxiously waiting world that lust-crazed walruses were probably involved in the finding of a dead cow at the bottom of the Potomac river in August last year: from time to time he paints his lawn.)

Trevor, Mar go and Malyon
 

Tuesday, January 2, 1990

French Gazette Vol. 4 No. 1 2 Janvier 1990

Hello everyone, and welcome to the New Year!

We’ve just come back from a jolly little Christmas en famille at Pesselière (faithful readers will recall that this is the country seat of the eminent Ian Vickridge): ourselves, Ian, Marie, their sprog, Manes’ parents and good old uncle Roger. A nice chap, if a bit on the neurotic side: a bachelor of advancing years, he lives in his apartment in Paris (this Christmas makes the second time in 137 years that he’s left the place, the first time being for the wedding) on a diet of boiled potatoes and slices of ham - for his health, you understand. This did not stop him from wolfing down roast duck in orange sauce, leg of lamb in honey and ginger, rabbit doused in cognac, set alight and then drowned in red wine

M. Vivion himself is a keen do-it-yourselfer, reasonably rare around these parts. We arrived in time to help put a wardrobe together, and to put a door into the room we were going to sleep in. Then he wanted to do something with concrete blocks, but got dissuaded, and he was rather disappointed when told he couldn’t pour any concrete on Christmas day.

We also heard the story of one of the neighbours, a chap of about 80 years who, a few years ago, had his first ever encounter with a lift. He wasn’t overly impressed at first - you go into a small metal box, the doors close, then the open, and you get out of the small metal box and where’s the pleasure in that? (Unless, of course, you Jjic~ small metal boxes.) “Well and good,” replied his guide “but you do not, perhaps, appreciate that we are now on the 8th floor.” The poor chap thought it was a joke at first, until he looked out one of the windows.

Anyway, we had a lovely time: beautiful weather, if a bit on the chilly side (there’s still no snow, unless you’ve got enough cash to head up to one of the higher ski stations), too much to eat and drink, and not too much to do. Headed back on the Thursday, and promptly ran into a bank of dense fog covering the entire country. Typical.

New Year’s Eve we spent quietly at home, watching the rock special for want of anything better to do. Spoilt a bit by the appearance of French groups, in particular by the presence as “special guest commentators” of Les Rita Mitsoukos, who’d have to be two of the most pretentious, posturing prats I’ve come across in a long time. (Sample - “Madonna can’t sing or dance, and her body’s not that hot either - can’t imagine what anyone sees in her. No relevance whatsoever to modern life.” No dears, and she sells more records than you too.) Never mind, the avant-garde has to have its say, I suppose. Which brings me to my favourite quotes from the evening (both of them from the real host, a nice young fellow with gloriously bad taste in waistcoats and matching ties):

“French rap music is just like French rock music - the English do it so much better” and

“I’m keeping my Stones records so that in 20 years or so I’ll be able to blast the ears off any kids unfortunate enough to be mine.”

An interesting and little-known fact - two out of three French singers are actually glove puppets manipulated by tone-deaf, brain-dead literary critics who’ve read rather too much of the works of Schopenauer than is good for them. The remaining 33% represent a bit of a dead end in the evolutionary tree which Mother Nature somehow never got around to pruning, which I suppose is good news for the anthropologists.

For those of you who hate writing letters, ~by the way, there’s a bit of good news: Margo will be going back to New Zealand for a bit in April (probably), so you’ll be able to say everything and save on the envelopes. She’s taking Malyon back to be cooed and gurgled at by the rest of the family in the traditional ceremony, which goes something like this:

“we, the uncles, aunts, great-aunts twice removed and cousins here assembled in solemn congregation, do hold these truths to be natural and self-evident, to wit

- that it is beyond a doubt the prettiest baby in the whole world
- that her little sparkling eyes are the nicest little sparkling eyes in the whole world
- that she just has the chubbiest little cheeks

and furthermore that we will uphold and defend these truths, and smite with contumely those who dispute them, at least until the time comes when we have to change her nappies.”

We have received a number of letters along the lines of

“Dear Agony Aunt - is Malyon a French name or what? I’d always thought it was a sort of pumpkin, but my boyfriend tells me not to be silly, the lipstick was on his shirt when he bought it. Please help me, Confused. (Name and address withheld)”.

The reply is simple:

“Dear Confused - No, it’s not French: it is in fact a family name dating back to the days of the Crusaders and one William of Malyon, who changed his name from William of Pumpkin in an attempt to avoid being harrassed in vegetarian restaurants. As for the lipstick, I’d recommend changing your washing powder and, if the stains still don’t come out, your boyfriend.”

Simple, really.

Having got all that out of the way, on to other matters. I’m still cobbling bits together for Merlin Germ - the affair is starting to get up my nose a bit, actually, it’s rather disheartening to work with such a sorry pack of amateurs. On the software side they’ve got a large team, each member working busily away at his or her little bit of the project: I’ve yet to meet anyone there who knows (or wants to know) how the bits are going to fit together. (One of their “programmers” ordered from us a reasonably complicated, and typically ill-defined, bit of software to synchronise two processors, generate and count timing signals and check the ignition on your car, rather grandly called “the ultimate and indispensable stage of validation”, which was duly delivered and paid for: I have since discovered that the sole object of all this was to allow the fellow to test a routine he’d written which converted a count into a date. There are easier ways.) As to the hardware, they’re currently on revision 4 of the card which is the key piece of the project (they designed it themselves, and are terribly proud of it), and the thing still doesn’t work.

On the brighter side, Pechiney (the aluminium people) have ordered a system similar to those we installed in their French smelters to control energy use for a new factory in Greece, so with a bit of luck Renaud and I will be off there later this year to install it. That, I think, would be rather nice.

16/3/90

Hello again, children. Awfully sorry to be this late in getting back to writing ... just leave it for a day or two, I thought ... what with one thing and another I’ve been working flat out and just haven’t been able to spend an hour or so enjoying myself. However, the last project I was working on - a sort of oscilloscope imitator for one of Pechiney’s aluminium smelters, which took about two months to get going properly - is now finished and I have a bit of time before getting on to the affair of the Grecian urn, so here goes.

On the off-chance that this arrives before she does: Margo is leaving here April 6 to arrive - all things going well - on the 8th. She’s planning on passing a week in Hamilton, one in Palmerston North, another in Wellington and a last week back in Hamilton, so those of you who want to should be able to see her.

Spring is here: temperatures are climbing back up into the 20s. For all that we have had a bit of snow and we’ve even managed to go skiing. Once. We were going to go again last weekend, but both Malyon and I had colds so we decided not to do anything at all. Had to go out anyway, as we got a phone call from the friends we’d planned on going up with to say that they’d just had an accident on the route national and could we come and give them a hand? About this time of year the garage owners on that particular stretch of road make quite a nice living from accidents.

13/4/90

Yeah, so much for having a few days free. However, I’ve just finished the Greek business, so this time I really do have a bit less to do. As the more astute of you will have deduced, Margo is - at
the time of writing - actually in New Zealand. With luck, I’ll get this finished and in the post before she arrives back here.

Next weekend it’s off to Annecy, I think, for the annual Salon des Vms et les Arts Culinaires ie the food and wine fair. The wine-maker from whom we bought a case of Chateauneuf du Pãpe last year very kindly sent me a couple of invitations, so I feel honour-bound to go along. Maybe buy another case, who knows? This weekend I’m booked up: out to dinner on Sunday with friends (Angeline and Tony, an Irish-French couple) and spend the rest of it trying to baby-proof the stereo in anticipation of Margo’ arriving back with a baby that crawls. A simple job, you may think, but I’m sure that I’ll manage to take at least five times longer than need be.

We finally got around to braving the legendary Lyonnais driving a few weeks ago, by the way, and drove into the place. As usual, we got a bit lost, case of missing signposts and suchlike, got onto the Pdripherique, missed the turnoff, got off at the next one, accidentally got back onto the Pdripherique going the other way, went too far, got off and found ourselves on the street we’d been looking for all along, heading tranquilly toward the railway station (this being the only place in all Lyon where I ~ there’ll be a parking slot. Usually, anyway).

A brief note on vocabulary: in French there exists the verb “englander”. When you’ve been Englanded, you’ve been swindled. (I doubt somehow that the word has anything to do with the English across the channel, which is a shame. The noun “Engliche”, on the other hand, definitely does have something to do with them: it means “English(wo)man: stuck up person: hoity-toity”. Isn’t language a wonderful thing?) There are many other interesting words in French, and a number of them are not rude.

Anyway, tonight I’m off to get the car exhaust replaced. I thought she was making a little bit of noise, and when I got around to looking under her the other night I discovered that the silencer had split from one end to the other, and on top of that the actual exhaust pipe at the rude end of the silencer, from which the whole assembly is suspended, is only hanging onto the silencer by sheer will-power. As I’ve no wish to be stopped by the cops for noise pollution, and even less desire to have the exhaust drop off if I change gear too quickly, I thought that getting it changed ASAP might just be a good idea.

Life is very tranquil: the place is always clean (relatively so), no piles of purée on the shagpile after feeding time, I’m sleeping very well, and the only fly in the ointment is the Pile of ironing to be done. Do not mistake me, I know perfectly well how to iron things. Just that, personally, I’d much rather not iron things, and I think that the ironing is of much the same opinion, and in any case I can always think of something more interesting to do (clean out the septic tank, for instance) and so the Pile just sits there. I look at it, it looks back at me, but generally speaking it’s not much of a conversationalist. I’ve a funny feeling it’s getting bigger, though: perhaps it eats the odd shirt that goes wandering past, or maybe it just sneaks out at night and steals washing. I’ll get onto it Real Soon Now, I promise. Just as soon as I’ve rebored the gaskets on the toaster.

OK, I think that had better be it. Time to run off a couple of copies before I head home, then drop them in the post tomorrow. With luck.

Friday, August 25, 1989

French Gazette Vol. 3 No 4 25 Aout 1989


Hello, it is I, LeClerc!

Bit of a shame, actually: “Allo ‘Allo” is finishing. With the pill from the till with the drug in the jug, not to mention the candle with the handle on the gâteau from the château. And the long-distance duck, shamefully shot in the pissoir by the Capitaine Bertorelli. (I tell a lie. We actually went out with René, disguised as a collaborationist French general - looking very much like de Gaulle -blowing up Herr Flick of the Gestapo with his fake nose, the fuse of which was accidentally set alight by Lieutenant Gruber after it had been squashed during the course of a passionate embrace with Mimi.) That’s not exactly what I was writing to tell you about, though.

First of all, after 8 months or so the bloke responsible for the maintenance of the apartment block has finally come round with the insurance assessor to look at the bathrom ceiling where the paint is coming off in sheets due to the falling damp occasioned by the flooding of the mayor’s terrace last winter. Having inspected the damage they’re going to call a meeting of all the proprietors before starting work, and as the mayor is still at his other house in Annecy this will not take place until the end of November which means that either nothing will get done until next spring (more little drips over the loo, no doubt) or they’ll start in midwinter anyway, discover it’s too wet and go away till spring, leaving us with gaping holes in the ceiling. However

The Readers’ Digest continues to annoy me from time to time, with letters along the lines of

Dear Mr/j~ BIMIeR, TREWXX, you have been chosen from amongst millions to participate in the 3g7th draw for a brand-new Daihatsu SportS runabout. YOU NEED NOT PAY US JUST YET! Unless we receive notice that you do not wish to continue, Ms TREWxx, you go automatically on to stage 5 of the contest! We can also offer you, as a discriminating first-time subscriber, the chance of a lifetime to buy the collected works of TV personality Jacques Chirac, leatherbound in real vinyl and each handsome volume personally signed by the author during one of the rare moments when hes let out of his straitjacket. HIRE-PURCHASE POSSIBLE! An offer you simply cannot refuse.

Yours slimily, illegible

They’re all the same, though. Margo gets the odd thing from a mail-order place, QUELLE (not too bad, actually) and so they bombard us with free offers, marvellous raffles and so on. The latest arrived today - “Dear Mrs Bimler, you have been selected to particiapte in the draw for 250 teeny B&W portable televisions”, with a little form to reply (and also place an order, if you want to) which has, at the bottom, a little box to tick if, as the text beside says, “you wish to claim your super prize of a television”. Which tends to give you the idea that you might at long last have come out on top in life, having finally won something. Then you notice that there’s a little asterisk beside it, and you look down to the extremely-small print at the bottom, which is where they hide the crib for asterisks and that ilk, and you can read (if you have excellent eyesight) “if I win.”

Speaking of small print, I’ve just had a letter from the Prefecture at Chambèry asking me to fill in a litle (big) form (coloured official cack-yellow) and to send in another contract, as my old one was no good. (All this for the annual extension of my work permit, you understand.) It seems that they want a fresh contract each year, and never mind the fact that the contract I have is an unlimited one - ie it doesn’t expire until I quit or am fired. An odd lot. Never mind, I’ve gone hack to an annual contract, which should keep them happy.

Anyway, I’ve just had confirmation that Allflex International j~ been bought (65% acquired, anyway) by a French company - the same company which, by an odd quirk of fate, owns Aliflex’s
 
 
major French competitor, Chevillot. (About three years ago, by the way, Allflex France had the opportunity to acquire Chevillot themselves, at bargain-basement prices, but turned it down. Bet they’re kicking themselves.) Interesting, I thought. Looks like they’ll he up for a bit of restructuring -again. As Jacques said, they can’t really have two lots of salesmen in the same district - especially as for the past few years the Allflex salesmen have been reviling their competitors and their products as useless, and vice versa. Even a farmer would have to notice if they suddenly became kissing cousins, so to speak.

Later, the same month ... the bike racing has finished at Chambèry, so life can go back to normal again and we’re able to go into town to do some shopping. You wouldn’t believe the crowds they had - and a fair percentage of them foreign. (Brits, Germans, Dutch - bleeding Dutch with their big fat caravans rolling along at Sokph blocking decent citizens from speeding - Italians, you name it.) Seems that the sister-in-law of the secretary here was able to let her balcony for 9000F for the week (only during the day, and I don’t know if that was standing-room only) to spectators. Enough to pay for a week for two in the States.

Speaking of cash, the taxman’s been at me again - sent a bill for this year’s taxes. I went in to inform them that I actually paid monthly (can’t he caught ought there, you know) only to discover that nobody had bothered to tell them this. They’ve promised to send me a little letter cancelling the bill. A propos, the latest crowd to go on strike are - surprise, surprise - the taxmen. They’re demanding more staff to handle the paperwork, and more money - which I suppose will mean more taxes, which’!! mean more paperwork, which will at least justify the extra staff. There’s a weird sort of logic to it if you look at it that way.

A complete and utter change of pace as autumn seems to have started. Sudden plummetting of temperatures towards the mid-20s, and everyone’s started scrubbing out the wine barrels ready for the vintage. Which, by the way, they’ve already proclaimed to he “the vintage of the century” - making it at least the sixth such so far. One of the last I recall offhand was officially announced by the then Minister of Agriculture about two months before the vintage: it happened to be one of those years (1964, if you’re interested) when rain stopped play, and the wine turned out to be somewhat mediocre. Much like the Minister, really. We’ll see how it comes out, anyway - I’ll let you know what the Beaujolais Nouveau is like in a month or so. Autumn also means that the kids go back to school after their three months or so of holidays. Goody.

Work goes on - the project I started on for Merlin Germ has expanded from simply testing cards to writing a bit of the low-level stuff for the eventual application which is going to run on them to actually defining the low-level stuff and various bits of stuff around the place: MG appear to have come to the conclusion that they’ve neither the time nor the expertise to do it all in-house. So it’s becoming a bit more interesting, at least. The only problem is that all the documentation - proposals, definitions of interfaces, counterproposals, rejection of stupid suggestions etc - has to be in French: natural enough, I suppose. So I type it all up (with frequent recourse to a dictionary to check on the gender of nouns and all the rest) and then give it to Evelyn, who goes through and sticks accents in all the right places. (There is, incidentally, a movement amongst the French to eliminate the circumflex - that’s this little fellow right here - as it serves no useful porpoise whatsoever, being pretty much equivalent to the grave. Double and silent consonants are also to go: thus, “Mitterand” would become “Mitèran”. A lot of the French themselves have problems with accents, and just stick a little line above a letter where there’s supposed to be one, and leave you to work out which one it is. An eminently sensible idea, in my opinion.) Anyway, she’s very good about it, and hardly laughs at me very much at all.

All of which reminds me a bit of the French joke about their multiplicity of tenses, which goes something like

the present perfect - “he is born” -
the past imperfect - “he was born” - and finally, the imperfect preservative - “he should never have been born”.

It helps if you have a thick French accent, and remember that “preservatif” is a condom. Anyway, that’s enough of that: time for me to go and stick my snout in the trough.

Somewhat later, my trotters are back on the keyboard. Friday’s rolled around again - when else would I find time to do this? - Friday the 1st of September, to be precise. Nothing particularly special about that, apart from the fact that you’re supposed to wish a happy saints day to every Giles you meet. It also means that sometime in the next week or two my brother descends upon us, bearing rich and precious gifts (I hope) - to wit, Angostura bitters and a couple of bottles of rustic Kiwi red for Renaud. Who is, incidentally, having a few weeks holiday in Corsica - I hope he hasn’t been burnt to the ground. The fires in Corsica are actually rather odd - for some peculiar reason they usually start in the night and are often in bushland right next to someone’s ranch or farm - onto which, coincidentally, they rarely spread. Some of the more cynical relect on the fact that, amongst those of Napoleon’s laws still on the books is one which states that you’re not allowed to expand your Corsican farm onto bushland - but if the bush happens to burn down (accidentally, of course), all bets are off. The same thing also seems to happen around the major towns, and especially around those suburbs which would like to expand outwards. (Frequently, those with a mayor who happens also to be a property developer.)

12/9/89

Margo still hasn’t popped yet, despite the shock of David arriving. Most annoying, this waiting business. It’s worse, I suppose, for Marie (she, you will rec~ll, is Ian’s wife): she’s confined to bed under doctor’s orders. Can’t last forever though. While I remember, I came across an article in Byte which might amuse you - the Elephant test for personnel placement. What, you may well ask, is this? Simple. You send job applicants to Africa to hunt elephan~s, then classify them according to the behaviour exhibited, to wit:

-    Mathematicians remove everything that is not an elephant, then catch what’s left. (A good one will first prove the existence of at least one unique elephant, a professor will demonstrate the proof and leave the actual capture to his graduate students.)
-    A computer programmer will follow the following algorithm:
a) start at the Cape of Good Hope.
b) traverse the country in east-west sweeps, moving from south to north.
c) on each traverse, compare each object found to a known elephant: terminate on a match.
An experienced programmer will place a known elephant in Cairo to ensure that the
algorithm always terminates.
-    Economists do not hunt elephants, but believe that, if paid enough, elephants will hunt themselves.
-    Hardware salemen catch rabbits, paint them grey, and sell them as desktop elephants.
-    A manager will set broad elephant-catching policy, based on the belief that elephants are like big field-mice, only with deeper voices.

There was also a scurrilous and entirely gratituous attack on lawyers, which respect for the good name of the profession prevents me from repeating.

19/9/89

And the news of the month is that we are now the proudish parents of a sprog, one Malyon Diana a.k.a. Frog. The gynaecologist got it right - much to his surprise - as she popped out, according to schedule, on the 15th. Four kilos and 53 cm from horns to tip of furry little tail, and if you want more details just write and ask - they’ll be sent by return post in a plain brown wrapper (discretion assured). Mother and child are in fine shape, and I’m as well as could be expected.

Other than that, nothing of note has really happened here. Still twiddling our thumbs waiting for our cartes de sdjour to arrive, but that’s perfectly normal. Merlin Germ (personified by the charming, but somewhat inexperienced, Mlle André) have sent yet another request for tender for yet another chunk of their network project which has landed on my desk with a heavy thunk: sent on the 14th of this month and asking for a reply by the 15th. A hit tricky even if the document happened to be readable, which it isn’t. You try estimating the time required to write a program module one of whose functions is - I quote - to “do something”. (The correct answer is, of course, “as long as a piece of string”.) I get the funny feeling that the whole thing was prepared in a bit of a rush. Never mind, we’ve organised a meeting for soonish, where we can perhaps clarify to some degree the various somethings. That’d be nice.

Jacques has informed me - with some glee - that the President Director-General of Allflex Europe, one Mr Alain Porcher, has been awarded a vote of thanks by the board of Allflex International, who also regret that his sterling services are no longer required given the intensive restructuring of the company which has been currently undertaken etc etc ic the raspberry (I learn that he has in fact been made a consultant, paid per consultation). In fact, most of Allflex Europe seem to be running about like heads with their chickens cut off, which I suppose is not too surprising under the circumstances.

There goes another lorry-load of Ferraris, closely followed by a truck belonging to the ubiquitous Mr Norbert Dentressangle. A rather bizarre name, I’ve always thought: reminds me a bit of a vampire. (A rather childish etymological derivation from “dent” or tooth, and “sang” or blood, yielding Mr N. Bloodstained-Fangs. I’d rather like to know wriat he transports in his enormous tanker lorries - bats, perhaps?)

28/9/89

And Margo and Frog have returned from the hospital, and I’ve come hack from my paternity leave. On now to politics, and a rather interesting idea from the Swiss (not a terribly likely source of interesting ideas in the normal course of things, I admit). The Geneva cantonal elections were held a short while ago, and before the elections themselves they organised a race - 400m sprint, or something of that sort - for all the candidates. Doesn’t sound too interesting? The good bit is that they allocated radio and TV publicity time according to the race placings. I liked it, anyway. So, I imagine, did the Green candidate, who came first (being youngest and fittest, I assume - although it’s possible that he’d been taking steroids, I suppose). Don’t know how it’d go down in New Zealand, though.

More on politics, or sort of - the French have won their first-ever test cricket match against England, at Lords. The fixture was originally planned for 1789, but was postponed due to rain (cf Louis X?? - “apres moi, le deluge”) and a certain political instability, and they’ve only just got around to playing it. Says something about the sorry state of English cricket that they can let themselves be beaten by the French.

Got to get into some paperwork soon - get Frog registered as a New Zealand citizen through the Embassy in Paris, check up on her exact status in France, and organise some tax relief (they lower your rates for the first year after the birth) - as soon as the tax people come off strike, that is. Then I imagine that once we’ve our cartes de sdjour I’ll have to get those changed to reflect our new status
more waiting ... and while I’m on about waiting I might as well mention that we ~ still waiting for the syndic (the fellow responsible for the apartment block, cf page 1) and his little henchmen to call around again. The man is obviously a Zen fanatic - prefers the contemplative life to actually fixing anything.

The other thing we’ll have to do is plan our holidays. It seems that I’ve still got about five weeks or so due to me, and we’ve got to use them up somehow. Perhaps a week or so in Paris with Ian and Marie for Christmas (have to look at getting a Kiwi Card so that we can get around on the train at half-price), perhaps a week’s skiing (everyone says that it’ll be a cold winter, hence lots of snow, as the onions have thick skins this year), maybe pop over Toulouse way in November to see Josette and Pascal - still leaves us with a bit to spare. Goody! Christmas in Paris should be fun, I admit - loiter outside Galeries Lafayette and ogle the decorations, freeze to death ambling up and down the boulevards (No! I have an overcoat now, thank God), exacerbate my hypertension whilst trying to thrust through the milling hordes ...

Trevor & Margo

Wednesday, July 5, 1989

French Gazette Vol. 3 No. 3 5 Juillet 1989

Back once more, I’m afraid.

First of all, on the international snobbery front: for all those of you who thought that Auckland was inferior to Wellington - it’s true. According to an international survey on the price of urban life with New York as a benchmark (score of 100) Wellington came out as n° 41 with a score of 101, whereas poor old provincial Auckland only got a measly 93. Not really very good for its cosmopolitan image, I must say.

Time is flying by, and it seems like it’ll be only tomorrow that I start a well-deserved week’s holiday. It will in fact be tomorrow, as a week has gone by since I committed the first deathless paragraph to disk. Sorry about that. See if I can’t do a bit better this time. We’ve not really done a great deal: we watch ‘Allo ‘Allo most evenings on Canal+ (I’ve no idea how many real Frenchmen actually watch it, but I suppose some must), we went through to Lyon again on the weekend to finally pick up a second bookcase, been having marvellous thunderstorms, and Margo’s parents arrived in the country on Sunday. At a rough guess, these events are unrelated. Anyway, come Thursday morning we load up the car, get a baguette or somesuch to munch on the way, and head off into the back of beyond to attend this wedding affair. Shall let you know how that goes; it could be interesting.

7/8/89

OK, it was interesting. We headed off on Thursday morning according to plan (not counting a small stop in Chambèry to pick up another 5 gallons of mint sauce to cover emergencies) and had a pleasant little trip via the routes nationales up to Macon and thence onto the autoroute. (All done with an eye on avoiding Lyon like the plague.) We got there about 4 in the afternoon, I suppose: the only real problem we had was trying to find the correct road to get to Pesselière (as they’re all marked as being at goat-track level on our Michelin maps). Quite nice countryside if you happen to like that sort of thing - gently rolling hills as far as the eye can see, nothing but fields of rapeseed, sunflowers and wheat (or grain of some sort - I’m not an agronomist, you know) broken by the odd belt of trees and inconspicuous little villages. Personally I find that it palls on me very quickly, but there you are.

Herewith, cribbed from the guidebooks: Pesselière, description of: readers, for the use of -

“a charming pastoral village, close by the justly celebrated city of Auxerre (once a world centre of the leech trade, the invention of the hypodermic syringe has all but killed the old craft of leech-farming, but the impressive Halitosis Research Centre is still well worth a visit). The architectural styles to be found are diverse, many of the houses being in Gothic Lean-to, contrasting prettily with the Squat Norman church (now, due to an unfortunate accident, in ruins) and the asylum (admission 7F50, ask at the 3rd cottage on the left). The old cottage industries of sheeptickling and moneylending are still practised, and on market days (once every 17 years) the village square becomes once again the centre of activity as conmen, thugs and village idiots, some from as far away as Sougères (the neighbouring hamlet), come to buy and sell raw Taiwanese plastic and oil futures. The traditions of yesteryear are very much alive: even the casual tourist cannot help but be charmed by the way in which the inhabitants cheerfully try to misdirect him (a delightful relic dating back to the thirteenth century and the depredations of Albert the Wall-Eyed) while the local children remove his hubcaps, and the visitor with more time to spend will be amply repaid by the opportunity to experience a traditional ‘tarring and feathering’. Considerable wine is grown in the district, some of which will recall to the discriminating taster the subtleties of a fine Indonesian Sauternes, with its rich, manure-like ‘nose’ and firm body, leaving a lingering aftertaste rather like silage. A culinary speciality of the region is porridge -generally flavoured with trotters or tripe - which is also much in favour as a diuretic: for feast days and holidays, the pièce de résistance is likely to be a dish not unlike the celebrated haggis of Scotland, being a sheep’s stomach stuffed with porridge, garnished with chocolate eclairs, pigs’ feet and blood pudding, but eaten lukewarm, with custard.”

References in boldface are to the Michelin Pink Guide.

And I’d like to thank the editors of the Michelin Polkadotted Guide for permission to include that extract. Sorry about that, something just came of me all of a sudden like, and now I suppose I’ll have to go back and make a few retractions before I get slapped with a libel suit. Auxerre is in fact a charming city, and has never - to the best of my knowledge - been involved at any time in the shameful trafficking in leeches which has tarnished the reputations of so many. There.

All that apart, their little farmhouse isn’t bad at all. From the ground up: the ground is, in fact, about 95% pebbles, the rest being large bits of gravel: I can’t recall offhand whether that bit of France was once a glacial bed or just the sea-bottom, but something sure left a lot of stones floating around. This is actually quite handy, as the house is (was) built in the traditional manner around those parts: to wit, hunks of stone with mud to fill up the gaps. (Not just any old mud either - this stuff lasts for a couple of centuries at least.) When I say “house”, there are actually two bits of it: the house proper, which is a sort of two-storey strip with its back to the road, and then the old stables, separated from that by a courtyard. Ian and Marie are currently working to get some bedrooms into the house bit which was, when they bought it, pretty much an empty shell. (One of them’s on the second floor, where the old granary was, and is reached by an outside ladder. In a promising start to the weekend Ian, having put this ladder in place so that some of the lucky guests could clamber up to sleep, managed to put his feet through two of the bottom rungs. We slept downstairs.)

All passed very well, anyway. Four days of sunbathing, eating and drinking and generally idling about can’t be all bad. The actual marriage ceremony was quite good too. They don’t actually have a Maine in Pesselière - the place is too small - so we walked to the neighbouring village (which also has a tabac and a boulangerie). That was Marie’s idea - the walking hit. Off we trotted, 40 or 50 of us, some brave souls wearing suits, in the blissful 35° heat: happily, the dog was the only reported case of sunstroke. (Incidentally, this neighbouring village happened to he all of 1.4 km away and - I promise it’s true - one of the inhabitants of Pesselière said that yerss, he’d heard of it, bit he’d never been there. “They do say it be a big place, and a fair step away and all.”) Having got there we all crammed into a small chamber tastefully decorated in shades of municipal green and with a bust of Brigitte Bardot peering down from the wall (in case you didn’t know, she was - until a few years back - the lucky one chosen as the model for Marianne, the spirit of the Republic, in all official statues, busts, portraits etc. These days it’s Catherine Deneuve, I think.) where we placed bets on the likelihood of the mayor getting through the ceremony without touching a tranquiliser. The poor chap had to read the names, you see: “Vickridge” was bad enough, but when then confronted with “Renualdo” (Portuguese) and “Nematchoffski” (Russian, what else), these being the witnesses ... he did a very creditable job, in fact, and hardly stuttered once.Then we tottered back to the farmhouse for drinks (of course) and the speeches - a tn-lingual affair in French, English, Portuguese, with a mock-Chinese version just for laughs.

Shan’t bore you any more with details of exactly how and in what order we did nothing for the next day or so: suffice it to say that on Monday morning I decanted Margo, her mother, aunt, and cousin Julia off at the railway station in Auxerre before heading off with Leigh and Howard in the car. Ian suggested that I take the scenic route: down through the national park of the Morvan to Vézelay (yet another ancient city absolutely dripping with history, or so it seems) and thence to Avallon, where you can get back onto the autoroute. “Dad and bro will love it” he cried enthusiastically, and so off we went. It must be my personality or something: the pair of them slept until Vézelay (only woke up there to take on a hit of food) and slept again till Avallon. Never mind, I’m used to it by now. At any rate we got back here (side-stepped Lyon again, not that I’ve anything against the place mind you) in time to pick up Margo and Jeannie from the railway station.
Tuesday’s excitement was getting rid of Howard (not, perhaps, the most fortunate turn of phrase, I admit). He wanted to pick up a few souvenirs, so we went into the Carrefour supermarket so that the garage close by could twiddle with my carbunettors while we shopped, and he bought -

-           one (1) dual-porpoise coffe machine (espresso, filter, and two dolphins)
-            one(1)coffee grinder
-           1 (one) kitchen whizz
-           two (2) kilos of coffee
-           one (1) suitcase.

We managed to get him to the station a few minutes ahead of time, lugging two suitcases and carrying the coffee machine as hand baggage.

I think that you can probably get by without too much on the rest of the week: we trotted off to Grenoble, Annecy, Chambery and Geneva - went up to Jacques’ for the day on Sunday - just a nice, calm holiday. I would rather like to know, though, why it is always overcast and a tad grotty whenever I go to Geneva. Perhaps it’s always like that, and those photos showing the famous fountain playing against a clear blue sky are all meticulous Swiss fakes. (Did you know, by the way, that you’re supposed to stop your car at red lights in Switzerland? Something to do with saving petrol and reducing pollution. Seems a bit bizarre to me.)

And that’s about all the excitement we’ve had lately. Apart from baby-sitting a squirrel, that is. It belongs to one of the kids downstairs (Margo gives him English lessons) and as they’re all off on holiday he asked if we couldn’t look after the little thing. We let it out for a run around the lounge most evenings, which thrills it to bits. Its favorite hobby is hiding behind the bookcases and performing unspeakable acts with all the power leads, followed closely by hiding nuts down the back of one of the folders. Don’t know why, ‘cos it can’t get down the back and so its little cache is totally useless, but it’s happy to pass its time running into its cage, stuffing its mouth with grain and things, running back to the folder, dropping all this down the hack ... you get the picture. That, and leaping around the furniture ... it’s easily pleased. We’ve discovered that the best way to get it back into its cage is in fact to twiddle with its nosh: it’s rather defensive about this, and rushes back to defend it. In fact, it’s so possessive about food that it’ll nip you when you try to take its little bowl out to fill it up.

Oh, I see that David Lange’s resigned too. For “health reasons”. It made the 8 pm news over here. Was it expected? I must admit that it came as quite a surprise to us - mind you, we hadn’t heard that Roger Douglas had been re-elected to Cabinet, which may, I imagine, have had something to do with it. I gather that Palmer is your new P.M. (He’s not ours: we don’t have the right to vote any more. Been out of the country too long.)

While I remember, who watched the Bastille Day celebrations? Not us, I’m afraid. I understand that it was all a bit shambolic, but better than expected. Better than the French had expected, at any rate. They did go to some rather ridiculous lengths about security, though - what with the heads-of-state meeting at the same time - even so far as to put an anti-aircraft battery on the Tolbiac bridge (which is right in central Paris). A bit silly really - as Jacques said, if they ~ managed to shoot down an aircraft, where the hell did they expect it to crash? But apart from the usual complaints about the money spent on the whole affair (somewhere up around “untold”) the sole whiff of scandal to come out of it was the celebrated dinner, where Mitterand invited the heads of all the rich countries to dine under the glass pyramid in the courtyard of the Louvre, while all the second-raters had to fend for themselves in a two-star hotel somewhere (and no doubt lucky to get that). Raised a bit of a stink overnight, but nothing lasting - probably because 50% of the journalists and a good 90% of their readers were off on holiday.

What else is new? David (my brother, for those of you who’d forgotten) is probably coming over from England to see us at the beginning of September before heading back to NZ. Usual impeccable timing: he’ll arrive just in time to start folding nappies and things. We’ve lugged the spare bed down to the dungeon, so he’ll either have to sleep down there (not a good idea, as that’s where all the wine lives) or on the joke exploding sofa.) Be good to see him again, anyway. I have no idea what the French’ll make of him.

16/8/89

And as you can see, time has gone by. The squirrel has gone hack to its rightful owners (arrived back from holiday at 11:00am, kids popped up at 11:01am to check up on it), and a good thing too. We cleaned up after it’d left, you see, so I moved out the bookcases to hoover up its little grain stores and discovered that, as well as nicking bits of paper from Margo (in order to keep its food warm, I suppose) it ~ taken to nibbling on the odd power lead. That for the tape deck, in fact - it had munged its way through the insulation and left us with about 4 strands of wire. Good thing we didn’t feel like any music during the week. (It also ate one of the speaker leads - it must have a thing about two-core cable.) A cute little beast, but its taste in food leaves something to be desired.

We have our birth certificates and such-like tranlsated and covered with official stamps, so we’re all ready for the bureaucratic aspect of birth. The translator seems to he a reasonable chap: he wrote a covering note saying that if we had any hassles wc should get in touch with him to see if he couldn’t help. We probably won’t (cross fingers) but I’ll keep his phone number handy for a while OK, time to go and get something to eat, I think. Have a drink while you’re waiting.

All fed and watered, I hope? The weather is still fine (and hot - too hot still for poor little Margo) which I know is getting rather boring (foggy and wet where you are, is it?) but there you are, it is summer after all. I’m actually looking forward to September - it’s normally a little cooler, although still fine, and best of all there are very few tourists/Parisians around. Who knows - we might even get to go on holiday. Perhaps - if possible - go across Toulouse way, where Josette and Pascal (the people who lived in the apartment beneath us) are now living, and visit them.

In the news at the moment is the general grumbling of the gendarmes, who are muttering rude things about too much work, no overtime pay, not enough holidays etc - not content in fact with just muttering they’ve started sending letters to the big papers and proposing - not a strike, because that’d be illegal - but a campaign of “civil civility”, let’s say - flagging down motorists to warn them where the speed traps are and things like that. As the poor things -ire actually part ol’ the army (you can elect to do your military service in the Gendarmerie, although ii you asked to they’d probably put you into the Presidential Ballet Corps by mistake) it’s the Minister of Defence who’s supposed to be dealing with it, and he doesn’t seem at all impressed. And of course Rocard, the prime minister, is in Australia at the moment - a meeting which the French are anxious to portray as something of a love-feast on both sides. Seems that after a few years of somewhat strained relations (nuclear testing, cowboy tactics in New Caledonia and general club-footedness in the Pacific basin) they’re trying to be liked again. Just so long as Rocard doesn’t get kidnapped by a kangaroo or half-eaten by a dingo on the other hand, that might just boost Australia’s image over here. (Just kidding, he’s actually reasonably popular in France: somewhat surprising wher you consider that he looks a bit like a constipated ventriloquist’s dummy, but there you are, they’re a strange lot.)

And, of course, at Chambèry they’re gearing up for the world cycling championships. The really big day is the 24th of this month - I think - but they’ve already started closing off streets for the qualifying time trials and suchlike. The roads are thus full of sweaty-loOking people, bum-up and head-down, wobbling over the road for all they’re worth. It’d be quite funny if it weren’t for the fact that we’re now obliged to stop every 5km or so to scrape another crumpled hike off the underside of the car.

Work is going quietly along: it’s what they call “the hole”, being as half the staff and virtually all the clients are off on holiday. Consequently I find myself just pottering about doing this and that:
putting the finishing touches on some more stuff for Merlin-Germ (a rather pointless little piece of development work, if you ask me, but no-one did and they’re happy to pay, so who cares), nailing down the odd little bug or two that I’ve not had the time or inclination to locate during the past year, mulling over the design for a little network, and of course writing this lot. While I remember, the last time my brother wrote he mentioned something about having heard that some French company had been looking at buying Allflex International - is there anyone out there who can confirm or deny this rumour? Jacques would really like to know (and there’s no point in asking Aliflex France - they probably wouldn’t know themselves, and certainly wouldn’t tell).


Well, it’s 4:30 on a Friday afternoon and I’m just thinking vaguely about going down to the bank, getting some cash, and then heading off home to get ready for yet another idle weekend, hut before I do that I’d like to just finish this off and that way there’s a chance that we’ll get it posted before September rolls around. We’ve an anniversary coming up too, by the way: on August 23rd it’ll be the second anniversary of our (official) entry into France. Congratulations and bank drafts may be sent to the usual address, care of Otto. I have to take care of changing our bank accounts into real French ones (instead of foreigners’ accounts), which probably means that we’ll be subject to the same limits as the poor French (no transfers exceeding 2000F out of the country, have to be polite to bank managers ... at least until 1992, anyway). I may look at forgetting to do that at the Credit Lyonnais -after all, it’s only the Credit Agricole who told me that I’d have to.

OK, that’s it. If by some stroke of fate the sprog drops before we do get around to sending these I’ll scrawl size, sex, and distinguishing marks (“looks more or less like a prune, has something that could be described as a nose in the middle of what one can only assume to be its face, full complement of limbs and lungs apparently in working order”) somewhere: if not, expect a carrier pigeon. Bye.

Thursday, May 11, 1989

French Gazette Vol. 3 No. 2 11 Mai 1989

Hello again, everyone!

We’ve been trying to buy a car! In fact, weve signed the contract for a nice little red Alfa Romeo 33, which is currently having all its rust removed by the garage, so it’ll be a few weeks yet before we get to run around in it (which is probably just as well, considering what else has yet to be organised). But what a story to get to that point. First of all I went to the Credit Lyonnais to see if they would give us a loan to help pay for the thing. “Yes Sir of course Sir no problems Sir just come back in a few weeks after I’ve checked things out.”

Did that, and guess what? Not possible. First of all, we hadn’t had an account with the branch for the requisite 2 years; secondly, even if we had passed that test, we’d still be eligible for a loan of only one year’s duration ‘cos we are regarded as foreigners. At this point I started thinking of the last letter and the little bit on bank managers. . . then I went off to the Credit Agricole, who were happy to give us a loan. Thanks in part to Mr Quesnel, who knows the branch manager (and I suppose it helps that all Miqro’s banking goes through the branch too). Anyway, having put the car on a conditional contract (subject to finance etc) we rus~ied down to the garage to say “yes, we’ve got the cash and can we have the car please”, and then I thought it would he a good time to start looking into the intricacies of car insurance. I’d thought that this would be complicated: it is in fact very simple. It’s a ripoff. The first agent I went to is one of the ones that does house insurance and all the rest: he quoted me (please be sitting down) the paltry sum of 15000 francs per year (he said this with a straight face, too) - or just half that if I just wanted third-party. Considering that the car is only worth 27000 francs, I found that excessive.

Went off to another agent, who quoted 700F/month and that only out of the kindness of their hearts: to get that price we’d have to get a letter from our insurers in NZ saying that we had actually been insured, and if we couldn’t get that they wouldn’t be able to give us all-risks insurance at all, seeing as we’d not been insured in France for the last two years. Arrgh! However, various people to whom I related this sad tale soon put me right: you have to hunt down a mutual insurance group. Did that, and they’re happy with a letter from Mr Quesnel saying that I’ve been driving the office car during X months and have had no accidents (only a little lie, that), at a price of about 4000F. This is still daylight robbery (admittedly that’s the price for the first year ie no no-claims bonus, but even after two years of trouble-free driving the price is still double what I’d pay in NZ) but I suppose it’s better than outright extortion.

OK, enough of that. After a few weeks of grotty weather summer has at last a-cumen in, so we’re basking in 24 degree days again and back to leaving the windows wide open all night to give the mosquitos a chance. (And, of course, so that we can be woken up in the weekends by the jolly buzz of lawnmowers and Mr le Maire above us practising banging on the floor with a hammer. Or his wife, banging on the piano with a blunt instrument. I wouldn’t mind so much if only she showed some signs of improvement.) Anyway, what with all the sun floating about the prospect of dining on the balcony becomes more and more attractive, so having (relatively) successfully cobbled together a chest for Margo to put things in (a sort of dry run), we must now look at making a sort of folding table thingy for those long warm lazy evenings.

27/5/89

Back again. Margo’s gone off to London for a week to visit family and stock up on cheapie baby clothes and suchlike (they’re 0% rated for VAT over there) so I’m sitting at home in the thundery evening of rather a nice day, tapping this out on yet another PC (the latest Compaq portable, if that interests anyone) which has - of course - yet another keyboard layout to which I’m trying to get accustomed. Not to mention having a different feel to it, being too small etc etc ... complaining isn’t really what I do for a living, you understand, just that I’m getting good at it. Thundery evening ... for the past week or more we’ve been having beautiful days, hot and sunny, and then religiously at about 6 pm the clouds come up and at about 8:30 we get beautiful thunderstorms right overhead. With, of course, the concomitant power outages, TV going fizzle sputter and so on. According to the weatherman it’s all due to lots of naughty warm moist air over Italy (where else?) which rubs in a sensuous fashion up and down the Alps all day until finally something gives.

Been quite a momentous day for me actually: I finally went and picked up our car. They’ve done an excellent job of replacing the rust (they cut it all out and put in some brand new, guaranteed unused rust just for us), repainting, fixing up scruffy bits on the seats and all sorts. Only thing is that the rev counter doesn’t work, so I’ll have to take it in and get them to fix that up (all under guarantee, which is apparently not all that normal). And of course I have to get used to it, after driving the tank around for so long. It’s nice to have something that doesn’t make parallel parking into a complete nightmare.

This is impossible! This little computer, nice though it may be otherwise, has one of those disgusting LCD screens and if things move too fast - or if they blink - they’re impossible to see. Now you may not know this, but the word processor I usually use for churning these things out uses what they like to call a “pointing device” these days - a mouse, to the rest of us - and when I move it round the screen I have terrible problems ‘cos I can’t see it as soon as it starts to move and then I don’t know where I am. And I keep missing keys - or not bashing them hard enough - and so I have to flit around the place sticking in missing letters like nobody’s business, and of course you do have to use the little rodent for that (see whinge n° 1, above). I’ll probably just get used to all its little foibles and then they’ll take it off me: we’ve actually only got it to do some work for a crowd called Merlin Germ, who want a superduper program to show off all the nice features of their sophisticated circuit-breakers at the big electronics fair in Hanover. That’s what they want: what they’ll get is another matter, but so far they don’t seem too disappointed. I liaise (if you’ll excuse the word) with rather a nice chappy there who is, by an odd turn of fate, headed off to your end of the world: he’s being sent off to their Sydney office. (And by the way, the Australians pronounce “Seedney” exactly as the French do.) I suppose that I really should give him a friendly warning as to exactly what he can expect - the rituals, the quaint mating dances, the fact that everyone’s called Sheila (when it’s not Bruce) and all the rest - but we’ll see how this project goes: if they start make too many suggestions for “improvements” I shall become malevolent.

Business rolls on as usual: Jacques seems to be doing well - Allflex, to their own surprise - and that of everyone else - have managed to sell lots of his pregnancy detectors (in Hungary, of all places) and the market for his little electric prod is apparently very good too, so they seem to be mustering up the nerve to actually sign the distribution contract with him that they proposed some months ago. As it’s worth about 11 million francs, that’s rather good news. Miqro is ticking over as normal, although Renaud (a nice fellow, about my age, who looks after the industrial software side of things) is thinking of leaving to set up his own business - be interesting to see how he gets on. In fact, France in general seems to be blundering on quite nicely, thank you. We’ve had no gross administrative hurdles to overcome lately - they seem to have decided to leave us in peace for a bit. Apart from the social security, of course. In France, you do not get subsidised medicines, doctors visits etc. - well, they’re not subsidised at the point-of-sale, as it were. What you do is go in and get your ears reamed, take the prescription for gallstones down to the chemist (who’ll probably be fresh out of them, hut that’s another story) and pay for those ... then, when your little folder of official documents is getting a bit full (or your bank account a bit empty) you send off all the receipts and forms for these things and the social security reimburses you according to the going rate. (As Margo is pregnant, that’s actually 100%, which is rather nice.) The problem arose when I got a bunch of these back, with a note saying they lacked the vignettes. I didn’t know it at the time, and nowhere is it explained to the ignorant foreigner (I suppose I really should have asked ...) and even worse, they’d accepted other forms in the same state (it depends on which bureaucrat you get), ~if on the forms which the chemist gives you once he’s handed over the gallstones you must stick - in the place provided, of course - the price and identification stickers which should he (and sometimes are) found on the back of the packaging. Quite simple, really. God alone knows why they want the things, and of course we’d thrown out all the packaging ... do you keep the boxes your bottles of Disprin come in? How strange. So we missed out a bit there, anyway. Not to worry, I’ll know not to do it again next time.
 
 
8/6/ 89

And here I am once more. Margo got back safely, having bought the entire stock of BabyCare in Brighton (that’s what it felt like anyway, going by the weight of the suitcase) and a few bottles of this and that - including a NZ red for Renaud to have a sneer at (“A well rounded peppermint Burgundy with just a hint of wool in the bouquet ...“). Then we spent the rest of the week recovering from the shock of discovering that we’d managed to save a bit of money. (Speaking of which reminds me that I went into one of the higher-tech branches of the Credit Agricole to draw some out on the Saturday and discovered that they have a continuously-turning revolving door which starts to turn in the opposite direction to throw you out onto the street again if it doesn’t like the look of you. Well, it actually has a metal-detector somewhere about, and it won’t let you pass with too much metal about your person - watch, keys, belt-buckle etc. - and as it ejects you it mutters soothing phrases, asking you to stick all loose change and valuables into the buckets provided. After you’ve done that it might let you in - provided that you don’t happen to have a pace-maker, titanium hip-bone or other spare parts.)

The Sunday we decided to be very French: the neighbours invited us to come along on a picnic to watch the bike race up one of the local mountains. (Not really a mountain, I suppose - it’s actually the start of the Massif de Bauges, but in any case it’s a climb of about l000m to get from the bottom to the top.) As the day dawned bright and sunny we took them up on this, and armed only with a bacon-and-egg pie and other such delicacies we set off. By the time we got to the top the sky had clouded over and the wind had got up: a short while later the temperature started plummeting. What the hell, we had our picnic anyway. (We couldn’t have left in any case: the gendarmes had barred the road to descending traffic so as to avoid problems with the bikes coming up.)

Quite frankly, I’m of the opinion that bike-racing lacks a certain something as a spectator sport; entertainment value, perhaps. At least, watching sweaty young men ride - at about ten-minute intervals - up a 1 in 3 slope in sub-Arctic temperatures with a howling gale playing gently about my ears does little for me. Apart from freezing me solid, that is.

Enough whinging. Having stated above that we’ve no gross problems with the French administration, you are now honoured to be the invites at a special soirée during the course of which I shall eat my words. It’s not that bad, actually: just that the auditor-general or somesuch has decided that what Margo’s paid by Mr Quesnel doesn’t count as an honararium, and that she should be paying social security on it. Normally no problem, but due either to a typing error or sheer bloody-mindedness on their part, it’s backdated to mid ‘88. Mr Quesnel (who received the same letter as we) will be appealing. (He has lovely big brown eyes.)

11/6/89

Another weekend rolled round. The rose is blooming, the tarragon is working on stage #2 of its plan for world domination, the fuchsias are out and aphids are trying to eat my chives. Or were, until we sprayed the entire balcony with Paraquat (or a derivative thereof) which is guaranteed to cure any problems one might have with marauding insect pests - or anything else, come to that. In the fine print it tells you not to touch the sprayed plants for at least a year or two, which is a hit of a shame as the mint already needs trimming after only a day or two of my not plucking some off to go in a salad or whatever. Yes, we’re living on salads (and cherries, and asparagus and suchlike): it’s defnitely that time of year again. And after all, why go to the trouble of preparing a hot meal when you can pick up a few slabs of magnificent ham (guaranteed to not have been injected with water, sugar and other additives to bulk it out), a spot of pâté and then whip up a quickie salad to have a gourmet treat?

Margo has been off making enquiries at the hospital recently. They wouldn’t let her into the actual hospital rooms; probably afraid of Antipodean infections or somesuch. However, she did learn that she has to spend a minimum of six days in hospital after the blessed event. She’s also got antenatal classes starting soon, carefully arranged so that they’re all in the afternoons to avoid possible interference/attendance by fathers. Probably a good thing really, don’t want any of the poor frail things fainting at an inopportune moment, do we? (Personally, I intend - at the moment of birth, that is - to turn a delicate shade of greenish-white and then slowly slide down the wall on which I had previously been leaning in a nonchalant fashion to wind up rigid on the floor. I’m told it’s good for your posture.) Oh, we bought an electric drill the other day. This means that I can take up my correspondence courses on brain surgery again. (Only joking - it’s appendectomies that you can do by mail.)

While I remember, Jacques’ back from Paris having signed his contracts with Allflex. He’s feeling quite happy about the whole affair, and justifiably so, I should think. Godnose it’s taken long enough. (Actually, the real reason he went up there wasn’t to sign contracts at all - it was to catch a bit of tennis at Roland-Garros. Somehow he manages to wangle a few tickets each year. If there’s anyone there who gets tired of everlasting rugby in the winter and then cricket come summer-time, spare a thought for poor us: we manage to escape the cricket at least, hut we get tennis instead. Not sure which is worse - speaking purely, of course, in terms of viewing pleasure.) Ian’s wedding draws closer and Margo pops down to the cellar every other day to pour more alcohol over the cakes maturing there. Don’t know how they’ll go down: in case you didn’t know, the piece de résistance at a French wedding is a thing called a croquembouche, which is a sort of tower affair made out of cream puffs glued together with caramel. Rather a far cry from your traditional Anglo-Saxon fruity wedding cake.

Actually getting to the wedding is going to he fun. It’s not far from Pesselières (a godforsaken hole miles from anywhere where Ian and Marie have their country seat) or, in other terms, about 400k north of here. That in itself is not a problem: the timing is. We shall have to leave on the 13th to avoid the mad rush of provincials heading, lemming-like, to Paris for the festivities - it is, after all, the 200th anniversary of the Revolution (the official champagne of the Revolution is, by the way, Canard-Duchene, which is in fact not too had - I find it rather difficult to imagine hordes of sans-culottes quaffing the stuff whilst watching the guillotine come down, though) and of Parisians descending to the provinces to avoid the crowds. (Did you know, by the way, that if you had a two-bedroom flat in Paris you could lease it out for about 3000F per day during the celebrations? [Outdated: please refer to the penultimate paragraph.] The rumours have it that Mitterand is letting the ground floor of the Elysee Palace.) So we’ve stocked up on Michelin maps so as to be able to get there one way or another: could either take the autoroute most of the way, or we could travel - as usual - by the back roads or the nationales, where the petrol is cheaper and you don’t pay a toll. At least we won’t have to take the Nevada. Rather a good thing really, as we’ll be bringing Margo’s parents back here with us, and I don’t know how they’d take being slung into the back of the wagon and told to behave like sacks of chicken-feed. Probably not too well.

23/6/89

Once more unto the breach and all that, witha view to getting this finished and maybe even posted before winter rolls round again. You may have heard that we’ve been enjoying a bit of a heat-wave lately - or at least that’s what it seems like to the poor French, who get sweatily bedraggled at the mere thought of temperatures over 32°. Personally, i’m rather enjoying it, but Margo is starting to find it a bit much, something to do with carting all that extra weight about no doubt. In England it seems that it’s got so hot (only 27° actually, but that is I suppose hot for a land where “weather” is a euphemism for “lousy climate”) that lawyers have - gasp! - been permitted to remove their wigs in court! Can see the headlines in the tabloids now - “Q.C. Bares All! Bald Barrister Braves the Beak!”

Back onto the topic of the glorious revolution: if any of you want to come over for the festivities, it seems that there’s a nice little apartment going in Paris - only 500m from Place de la Concorde (could be Maxim’s, I suppose), 2brm, view (of Maxim’s rubbish bins, no doubt), 10,000 $US per week. I don’t ~ it was a misprint, and I assume that someone’s taken it - at least, the ad hasn’t appeared again. Alternatively, you could always doss down under a bridge or in the Metro in the best Parisian tradition. Under a bridge is probably the best bet: there won’t he any traffic noise to disturb you ‘cos they’re banning all traffic from central Paris for about a week. Which seems pretty stiff bikkies on those who actually live there - forced to ride on the Metro with their country bumpkin cousins reeking of garlic and Gauloises and getting poked in the ribs by 7-foot long telephoto lenses carried by the invading horde of all-too scrutable Orientals and having to listen to potato farmers from Idaho saying “isn’t he just such a typical Frenchman?”. Still, they could always go on holiday. Which is not, now that I think of it, such a good idea after all - one million or so Parisians haring
 
 
through the countryside like Stirling Moss on speed in search of a quiet spot away from it all in which to have a picnic lunch, scrap with the wife, abuse the kids and then dump all the garbage accumulated during the last Paris cleaners’ strike might be one million too many. Better that they stay in Paris and riot - burn down the Matignon or somesuch, “to the guillotine with tonton Mitterand”.

And that really seems to be about it for this little letter. Should anything really fascinating occur before the end of the day I’ll tack it on, but I somehow have my doubts that it’ll be necessary. Oh yes, I see that Ronald Reagan too has become an immortal (see N° 1, Acadèmie Franqaise, Rights appertaining to members thereof) and is thus entitled to wear a sword. Whilst in France, anyway. Good thing he’s not Gerald Ford, I suppose - ~ have managed to stab himself with the thing at the induction dinner. (Jacques Cousteau got inducted last night, by the way - his sword was a beautiful crystal-hilted affair of rampant dolphins and suchlike. Very nice indeed.) OK, bye now, and enjoy the ski season.

Trei’or & Margo